Miuccia Prada has long been synonymous with designs that change the course of a season. Breaking traditional ideas of taste, she challenges us with ugly clothes that suddenly look, well, pretty. In 1996, Prada’s Spring and Fall collections disrupted the fashion scene by combining eccentric color palettes with classic silhouettes. The collections, known as ‘Ugly Chic’, marked a shift in Miuccia as a designer and Prada as a label.
On October 01st, 1995, Miuccia Prada presented her Spring 1996 runway show. The collection, named Banal Eccentricity, was inspired by ordinary household objects, paying tribute to when “banal design was elevated to ‘Banal Art’ at the Venice Biennale in 1980.” She did so by combining geometric shapes with basic styles. The color palette consisted of green, ochre, brown, lilac, and white. The patterns were seemingly inspired by Formica tiles and tablecloth textiles; while some were printed onto synthetic textiles, others were printed onto tweeds of cotton, causing a trompe-l’oeil effect. Separates consisted mostly of classic striped button-ups, polo shirts, knee-length skirts, and straight pants. Chunky sandals and shoes completed the kitschy look.
What started in the previous season continued on March 08th, 1996, when Miuccia Prada presented her Fall 1996 runway show. The mood for this collection was more sophisticated and muted than the previous one. The color palette consisted mainly of navy, gray, burgundy, and black, but still presented off-colors such as ochre, brown, and lilac in abstract U-patterns. Silhouettes were longer and leaner. Separates consisted of peacoats, cashmere sweaters, straight skirts, and cigarette pants. Chunky Mary-Jane shoes in antique brown leather with flower appliqués completed the geeky look.
In both collections, the patterns screamed bad taste, yet the silhouettes and choice of separates were for the ordinary woman, who keeps things simple and mixes and matches them with little thought. This ironic combination made them all more intriguing and interesting for fashion critics.
The collections were equally loathed and loved. Yet, despite all odds, Miuccia Prada made ugly look cool.
Memo
• In her review in March 1996, following the show, Robin D. Givhan said: “Prada is still ugly. Given enough time, the eye can adjust to anything. Except, perhaps, this.”
• In 1996, a pair of antiqued leather Mary Janes with flower appliqués in different shades of brown were considered the ugliest shoes in the world. Yet, they sold out immediately.
• In an interview with Harper’s Bazaar in February 1996, Miuccia said, “The reason I like fashion is that it changes. And, anyway, good and bad taste are really useless terms, because everything alters with time.”
Reference
• Harper’s Bazaar US, February 01 1996: ‘A Question of Taste’ by Sarah Mower;
• New York Times, November 19 1995: ‘Beauty Is As Beauty Doesn't’ by Suzy Menkes;
• SHOWstudio, ‘Miuccia Prada—The Master of Ugly’ by Alexander Fury;
• Washington Post, May 08 1996: ‘Plug Ugly’ by Robin Givhan.